Frozen Pipes and Ice Dams: Winter Property Claims

Cold weather produces a specific and predictable set of property claims. The Insurance Information Institute and IBHS both put frozen pipes and roof water intrusion near the top of the list of winter losses.

They are also the claims with the most conditions attached. Freeze damage is generally covered by a standard homeowners policy, but the coverage commonly comes with a requirement that you took reasonable care to prevent it, and that requirement is where disputes start.

How a pipe actually fails

Water expands as it freezes. Inside a closed pipe, the expanding ice pushes water ahead of it toward a closed faucet or valve, and pressure builds in that trapped section. The pipe usually splits at the weakest point, which is frequently not where the ice is.

The damage happens on thaw, not on freeze. A split pipe releases nothing while the ice plug holds it. When temperatures rise, the plug melts and water flows from the break, often into a wall or ceiling and often while nobody is home.

Pipes at highest risk are those with the least protection from interior heat: exterior wall runs, attics, crawl spaces, unheated basements and garages, and outdoor spigots and irrigation lines.

How an ice dam forms

IBHS describes the sequence precisely. Heat escaping into the attic warms the upper roof deck. Snow on that portion melts and runs down toward the eaves, which are colder because there is no heated space beneath them. There the water refreezes, and a ridge of ice builds up. Meltwater continues to arrive, pools behind the dam, and with nowhere else to go it works its way under the roof covering and into the structure.

The important implication is that an ice dam is an insulation and ventilation problem before it is a roofing problem. Keeping the attic cold, by air sealing the ceiling below and ventilating above, is what interrupts the cycle.

What is generally covered

Standard homeowners policies generally respond to:

• Sudden and accidental discharge of water from a plumbing, heating or air conditioning system, which is the provision that covers a burst pipe
• Water damage from an ice dam backing water under the roof covering, subject to the policy's terms
• Weight of ice, snow or sleet causing damage or collapse of the structure
• Damage to the building and to personal property from the resulting water

What is generally not covered

• The pipe itself. Policies typically pay to tear out and access the pipe and to repair the resulting water damage, but not the cost of the failed pipe segment. Wording varies.
• Gradual leaks and seepage. A slow leak over weeks or months is deterioration, not a sudden loss.
• Damage from freezing when you did not maintain heat or shut off the water, discussed below.
• Flooding, including melting snow entering from the ground. That is flood, a separate policy. See flood insurance and the NFIP explained.
• Sewer or drain backup, unless you carry a water backup endorsement.
• Mold, which is typically sublimited or excluded, and which is the reason drying quickly matters. See water damage: what a home policy covers.
• Ice dam removal itself on many policies, as distinct from the resulting damage.
• Wear on the roof, which is a maintenance matter. See roof age and roof claims.

The freezing condition in the policy

Most homeowners forms contain language specific to freezing. In substance, damage caused by water freezing in a plumbing, heating or air conditioning system or an appliance is excluded unless you used reasonable care to maintain heat in the building, or shut off the water supply and drained the system.

This is not a technicality. It is the most common reason a freeze claim is denied, and it bites hardest in three situations:

• A vacation or second home left unheated over winter
• A rental property between tenants
• A primary home left during an extended absence, particularly where a furnace failed or power was lost while nobody was there

A house that has been empty long enough may also run into the policy's vacancy provisions, which restrict coverage separately. See vacant and unoccupied homes.

Prevention that also protects the claim

The guidance below reflects III and IBHS recommendations, and doing it serves two purposes: it prevents the loss, and it demonstrates the reasonable care the policy asks for.

For pipes:

• Insulate pipes in attics, crawl spaces and along exterior walls
• Keep the home heated. III suggests at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit because the cavity where pipes run is considerably colder than the room; IBHS recommends a minimum of 55 degrees even in an unoccupied property
• Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls so warm air reaches the plumbing
• Let a faucet drip during severe cold to keep water moving
• Disconnect and drain garden hoses, and shut off and drain outdoor spigots
• Know where the main water shut-off is, and make sure everyone in the household does
• For an extended absence, have the system professionally drained, or use a monitored low-temperature alarm and arrange for someone to check the property

For ice dams:

• Clear gutters and downspouts before winter
• Air seal ceiling penetrations so warm air does not reach the attic
• Check attic insulation depth and soffit and ridge ventilation
• Remove snow from the lower roof with a roof rake from the ground, not from a ladder
• If heating cables are used, choose products that are properly listed or certified and have them installed professionally. They create drainage channels; they do not remove a dam

If it happens anyway

1. Shut off the water at the main valve.
2. Stop further damage. Every policy imposes a duty to protect the property from additional loss, and reasonable emergency costs are generally reimbursable.
3. Call your insurer, using the first notice of loss process. Do not wait for the water to be cleaned up.
4. Photograph and video everything before moving items or beginning cleanup.
5. Start drying immediately. Standing water becomes a mold problem quickly, and mold coverage is usually limited.
6. Keep receipts for emergency repairs, mitigation services and temporary lodging. If the home is uninhabitable, see loss of use and additional living expenses.
7. Do not discard the failed component. Your insurer may need it if a manufacturer or contractor is responsible. See subrogation.
8. Keep a list of damaged property. A prior inventory makes this far easier. See building a home inventory.

Winter losses beyond the house

Vehicles. Damage from a falling tree limb under snow load, ice or hail is generally a comprehensive claim, while sliding into something on ice is collision. See comprehensive claims.

Detached structures. Sheds, detached garages and carports fall under Coverage B, which is commonly a percentage of the dwelling limit.

Liability. A guest injured on an icy walkway is a personal liability matter, and prompt snow and ice clearing is the practical control. See home liability.

Related reading: filing a home insurance claim, what homeowners insurance covers, and actual cash value vs replacement cost.

Policy wording on freezing, ice dams, water backup and mold varies by insurer, by form and by state, and your policy documents control. For your own situation, speak with a licensed agent, your insurer, or your state's Department of Insurance. You can also request home insurance quotes and get connected with licensed providers in your area.